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The Friday after Thanksgiving is a bright winter day and the sharp, tangy smell of pine trees mixes with wood smoke at Lawrence’s Brite Valley Tree Farm just west of Tehachapi. We twist down a narrow driveway lined with evergreen trees to a small parking lot, where nine-year-old Jackson Emerson hops out of the car, ready for a Christmas tree hunt. Hand-painted signs hanging at the farm’s garage declare: “The best trees you ever SAW,” and “YULE love our trees.” A cheery crew of Lawrence family members hands us a pair of long-handled tree-cutting saws, and a few straightforward instructions: • Tromp around the 12-acre tree farm as long as you like until you find a perfect tree. • When you cut, take care to leave a spiral of branches at the base so the tree will regenerate in a few years. • Take extra boughs home for a wreath. Deftly wielding the saw, which stands a full head taller than he, Jackson leads our group...

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